Pizza Not Served in a Box…Roma style
Wednesday, November 25th, 2009The thin crust pizza that is a Roman gift to the world has few rivals. Now certain Chicago based pizza lovers may have some trouble adapting. But for the rest of poor souls who routinely err in ordering pizza delivered in a box, here are some great pizzerias worth visiting when your travels next take you to the Eternal City…
Where do you find a bit of Naples in Rome? If it’s pizza, the soft and thick pie type, Da Vittorio in the heart of Trastevere is the stop you should make. The owner prides himself on being special, so the Vittorio (fresh tomato, basil, mozzarella, and Parmesan) is a must. Pasta, antipasti, and salads are also on the menu. Decor is very Italian in this small but popular spot, which includes lots of Neapolitan memorabilia. Address: Via di San Cosimato, 14/a.
In a small street off the happening Trastevere neighborhood, Dar Poeta specializes in a 100% natural and yeast-free slow-rise pizza, which is exceptionally digestible. The toppings are traditional, as well as eclectic, like apple and Grand Marnier. The service can verge on gruff, in the best Roman fashion, and the bill’s scrawled on the on the brown-paper covering the table. But the atmosphere’s jolly, even in long queues outside (no reservations). Address: Vicolo del Bologna, 45.
Est! Est! Est! dei Fratelli Ricci
Named after a wine, this is one of Rome’s most traditional pizzerias with an alluring if rather faded art nouveau interior. Family owned and operated, the restaurant has been serving thick-crusted pizza cooked in a pan (unique in Rome) since the 1930s. Popular for its calzoni ripieni (stuffed pizza). Address: Via Genova 32, Rome 00184
In the residential Prati district (north of the Vatican), this place is a favorite with Romans for the high-quality pizza and fried antipasti. The pizza alle verdure (with vegetables) is one of the best in town, and the others are memorable too. Don’t get disheartened by the queues; the venue is large and the service very efficient. The closest metro is San Pietro-Ottaviano. Address: Via Faà di Bruno, 25.
One of the few pizzerias open also at lunchtime, La Gallina Bianca (”The White Hen”) keeps the wood-fired oven blazing daily. A short walk from Termini station or Santa Maria Maggiore, it serves thick-crusted Neapolitan-style pies with fresh toppings. The dough is slow-risen and thus particularly light. The service is young and quick. Gallina may not win loads of awards, but the pizzeria is a great option in the dodgy Esquiline area. Address: Via Antonio Rosmini 9, off Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Run by the daughter of the owner of the legendary Pizzeria da Baffetto that is just around the corner on Via del Governo Vecchio, Montecarlo holds its own. It offers great pizza, home-made Roman desserts and cheap but tasty wine in a fun, noisy atmosphere. A favourite of young locals and tourists alike. Address: Vicolo Savelli 12/13.
A small-ish place where the pizzaiolo (pizza chef) takes center stage. He works in the middle of the restaurant and shows off the whole time. His creations, however, are sublime, so the grandstanding can be forgiven. In a city of fixed pie widths, he mixes it up from small to massive (according to the number of diners per table). Authentic Neapolitan desserts. Address: Via del Banco di Santo Spirito,19.
Still one of the best buys for your money, Pizzeria da Baffetto is a Roman institution. You will have to wait in line if you arrive late, but the roungh-and-tumble typically Roman atmosphere will make up for it. Bus: Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Address: Via del Governo Vecchio,114.
Enjoy the setting sun at an outdoor table at Pizzeria Popi-Popi. Inside, the place is big and the service fast. A favorite of Rome’s young crowd, it offers tasty traditional pizza at a bargain price. Address: Via delle Fratte di Trastevere,45.
Located in the sprawling heart of the Testaccio district, there’s no better place for authentic pizza and a Roman atmosphere. Known for its big thin-crust pies (you pick your own toppings) and the classic Romano, Remo’s a loud and popular place. Outdoor tables available, but expect to wait in line if you arrive late. One minus is that the owner closes in August. Address: Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44.
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