Aielli & Benevento

Despite antiquities right and left, the city of Rome remains a sometimes intimidating urban center.  The Eternal City is filled with great restaurants but for travelers with children places like Agata & Romeo or Checchino may not be ideal settings for kids.  

Here are some places that work with children, and you will eat well too!

> Scarpone

Via San Pancrazio, 15; Tel. 06 58 14 094; (1/2 mile south of Vaticano)

This restaurant, managed by the same family since 1849, has two large rooms and a large garden with a pergola, pleasant for eating out in summer. It also has a wood-fired oven for pizzas. The dishes offered are based on classical and traditional cuisine, including recipes such as spaghetti with clams, soups, linguine pasta with lobster, vegetables au gratin, grilled meats and fish. Sumptuous desserts trolley.> Osteria dell’ AngeloVia G. Bettola 24; Tel. 06 37 29 470Relaxed dining, a very good fixed price lunch deal limited choices, Roman food – they have an oven they fire up in the evenning but we were there at noon on Christmas Eve – patrons mostly local, groups of guys, families with strollers, all sorts – servers of character – supposedly ex-rugby players and looked it. Friendly and real.

> Ditto L’Isola della Pizza

Via degli Scipioni, 43-47; Tel. 06 39 73 3483; www.isoladellapizza.com

Pizza (also in Prati near the Vatican) at lunch is not all that common in Rome – this place offers fine wood oven pizzas along with a fine antipasti spread and I am sure other good things – Convivial good humored atmosphere, patrons from local business people to students – their pizzas were excellent. The owner/guy in front of the huge oven is reputed to be an avid hunter and game is featured in season – on a non-food note, funny sanitizing toilet is worth seeing – a new thing in Rome.

> Etablì caffè restaurant winebar

Vicolo delle Vacche 9/A, Tel. 06 97 61 6694; www.etabli.it 

Very good roman food and exellent wines.

> Buccilli Hostaria

Via dei Due Ponti 48; Tel. 06 33 40 048

A typical country trattoria, where the kindness of Alberto, along with the professionalism of Rita and Romelia’s mastery in the kitchen, give a welcoming, family atmosphere. The trattoria is also blessed with a very pleasant garden. The menu offers traditional Roman cooking alongside fish dishes and seasonal game and ‘Porcini’ dishes. Simple dishes can be prepared for children and are available on request.

Homemade pasta is the hallmark of any foodie’s trip through Italy. To continue the gastronomical experience at home, stop by Giacomo Rizzo an artisan pasta shop located in Venic e’s  Cannarégio district .

Not far from the Ponte di Rialto (the only bridge to cross the Grand Canal), this well-known shop has been selling fresh, handmade pasta for four generations. Here you’ll find pasta in a variety of shapes, flavors, and colors. In true Venice flair, pick up pasta in the shape of Carnevale hats and gondolas. For the more daring, try one of Giacomo Rizzo’s unique flavors: beets, artichoke, or pimentos. Other Italian specialty items are also available to purchase: olive oils, balsamic vinegars, and sauces.

> Giacomo Rizzo

Salizzada San G. Crisostomo, 5778; Tel #041 522 2824; Hours: Mon-Sat 8:30am-1pm, 3:30-7:30pm, Wed closed afternoons. 

Siena, the Grand Dame of Tuscany:   Noted travel expert Rick Steves once remarked that Siena was his most favorite city in all of Europe.  We think this medieval enclave  is pretty fabulous too and not just because of the annual Palio horse races that occur in its Campo in July and August. Shaped like a fan, Siena’s Piazza del Campo is dominated by the Palazzo Pubblico (city hall) and the slender Torre del Mangia. The tower is named after its original bell ringer, Giovanni di Balduccio, who earned the nickname “Mangiaguadagni,” shortened to “Mangia,” for his tendency to spend all of his earnings on food.And speaking of food, here are three outstanding dining establishments if one adventures beyond this historic city’s walls.

> LA TAVERNA DI SAN GIUSEPPE

Via Giovanni Duprè, 132 
Telephone (39) 0577-42286; Web Site www.tavernasangiuseppe.it 
Open Lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday 
Cost Entrées $14-$28; Credit cards All major 
Most of Siena’s Etruscan architecture remains hidden under its streets, but the owners of this family-run restaurant excavated a complete, cavelike house—hand-carved more than 2,000 years ago—and turned it into their wine cellar. Enjoy an aperitif in the cellar, where you can also sample excellent local cheeses, then move up to the trattoria-style dining room. The menu features traditional local dishes, such as wild boar cooked in milk, or lasagna with porcini mushrooms, pumpkin and a Vernaccia di San Gimignano sauce. Good buys from the 500-selection, Tuscan-based list include the Fontodi Chianti Classico Vigna del Sorbo Riserva 2004 ($59).

>  ANTICA OSTERIA DA DIVO 


Via Franciosa, 25/29 
Telephone (39) 0577-286054;  Web Site www.osteriadadivo.it 
Open Lunch and dinner, Wednesday to Monday 
Cost Entrées $19-$24 ;  Credit cards All major 
It’s not every day you get the chance to dine in a 2,000-year-old Etruscan grotto, carved out of solid tufa rock. But architectural curiosity is not the only reason to choose this old restaurant, located in the streets behind the Duomo di Siena—owner and chef Pino Di Cicco is also a trained sommelier, matching his well-presented local cuisine with a selection of about 400 mainly local wines. The menu has a heavy emphasis on game during the winter, such as a rack of wild boar cooked in a very sweet cinnamon-spiced Vino Novello with caramelized baby onions. The fare turns lighter in the summer season with the addition of fish.

> ENOTECA I TERZI

Via dei Termini, 7 
Telephone (39) 0577-44329;  Web Site www.enotecaiterzi.it 
Open Lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday 
Cost Entrées $19; Credit cards All major 
Owners Michele Incarnato and Sergio Favilli run this popular restaurant and wineshop near the Campo. The cuisine is deceptively simple, showing local ingredients at their best. The pici (thick, hand-rolled spaghetti) with sausage and rape was delicious and surprisingly light; a youthful Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 1997 ($50) was the perfect accompaniment. The lengthy wine list, with about 1,200 labels and a Tuscan core, offers a number of well-priced older Brunellos, such as Castello Banfi Poggio alle Mura 1997 ($69) and Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Castelgiocondo 1990 ($101). The lively atmosphere makes this place a popular haunt, so be sure to book in advance.

>  OSTERIA LE LOGGE

Via del Porrione, 33 
Telephone (39) 0577-48013;  Web Site www.­osterialelogge.it 
Open Lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday 
Cost Entrées $21-$30; Credit cards All major 
Le Logge, just off the Piazza del Campo, is a favorite of locals and tourists alike. It offers one of the best all-around dining experiences in the city, despite the recent death of its much-loved founder, Brunello producer Gianni Brunelli. Restaurant manager Mirco Vigni has a smile for everyone and intimate knowledge of the 900-selection wine list, which includes about 100 Brunellos among its many Tuscan choices. Interesting maturing vintages take in wines such as Eredi Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995 ($113) and Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino 1999 ($82). Chef Nico Atrigna’s interpretation of local cuisine includes roast pigeon served with an intriguing licorice-scented sauce—the perfect foil for an excellent, youthful Brunello Riserva 2001 ($101) from the vineyards of the late founder. Ask for a table outside during the summer and be sure to make reservations in advance.  

We thought we should share with you our favorite summer drink…the modified Bellini: one part Cranberry Juice; two parts Prosecco, and a large slice of orange.

In a tasting of Prosecco from Italy, they are meant to drink young. They are generally excellent as aperitifs and go well with light appetizers. Some of the best would pair well with sushi and dishes with cream sauce. All of those listed below  are nonvintage except as noted. We have included a formal appellation when it was listed on the label. These tend to be light and lower in alcohol than many wines (around 11%). Serve nicely chilled. They can certainly be served in Champagne flutes because of their pleasant bubbles, but they are also fine in regular wine glasses because of their informality.

As for the Italy’s version of champagne. try the best tasting prosecco according to Wall Street Journal Dow Jones Wine Index:     Mionetto Brut or Mionetto “Sergio” Extra Dry.

> Mionetto Brut. $9.99.

Very Good. Best of tasting and best value. Some Champagne-like finesse. Minerals, toast and real fruit tastes, especially apples and pears. A little bit of weight makes it especially good with food. Repeat favorite. We also liked Mionetto “Sergio” Extra Dry ($21.99).

Here are some other adequate proseccos, recommended by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, who write “Tastings,” the weekly wine column of The Wall Street Journal. They also are the authors of four books on wine, including “Wine for Every Day and Every Occasion.” These are their favorites:

> Bartenura Extra Dry. $15.99.

Very Good. Good fruit, with ripe, white grapes, a touch of brown sugar and complexity that many lack. Lovely, with subtle acidity. Kosher.

> Astoria ‘Cuvée Tenuta Val de Brun’ (Valdobbiadene) Extra Dry 2007. $19.99.

Good/Very Good. Nutty, mineral nose, with some toasted almonds. Very pleasant. We did not like Astoria nonvintage “del Veneto” as much.

> Bisol ‘Crede’ (Valdobbiadene) Brut 2007. $22.99.

Good/Very Good. John thought it was bland, but Dottie liked its cleanliness and tastes of mango and lime. Easy drinking.

> Col del Sole (Valdobbiadene) Extra Dry. $11.19.

Good/Very Good. Clean, fresh nose with some minerals. Vibrant bubbles. Lychee and mangoes — in fact, a bit tutti-frutti, but in a fun way. Relaxed, happy wine.

> Di Fiore ‘Passionne.’ $9.99.

Good/Very Good. Lively, with ripe tastes, nice balancing acidity and a very easy, light finish.

> Foss Marai Extra Dry. $15.99.

Good/Very Good. Fun, with tart, green-apple tastes and a little hint of minerals. Definitely an aperitif wine — start the party!

> Desiderio Jeio Brut. $14.99.

Good/Very Good. Ripe lemons with a touch of sweet fruit. Clean, soft and nice, with particularly charming little bubbles.

Judging a book by its cover is always dangerous.  It’s even more dangerous when that book is a hotel in Venice built in the 16th century.  Starhotels waved their magic wand once again and the Splendid Hotel, which is nestled in between the Rialto and Piazza San Marco, received their blessed spell.  Only by boat can you reach the ancient edifice now embedded with Starhotels’ sleek contemporary design.  Entering the hotel you will be stunned walking through the doors of this once humble 16th century inn.  The New York Times reports, “a sleek modern interior, decorated in beige with splashes of wisteria, black and red,” www.nytimes.com  .  The look is impressive and refreshing. 

> Splendid, Starhotels

S. Marco Mercerie, 760 – 30124 – Venezia


Tel: +39 041 5200755

F: +39 041 5286498


www.starhotels.com/hotel/splendid_venice 

Three great places to find the best gelato, pastries, and desserts in Northern Venice:

> Gelateria Alaska

Santa Croce, Lista dei Bari, 1159; Tel #041 715 211; Hours: May-Sept daily 11am-midnight, Oct-April Tues-Sun 1-9pm; Dec-Jan closed. The friendly proprietor of Gelateria Alaska, Carlo Pistacchi, has been serving up his creative gelato flavors for over 24 years. At his Jamaican-style gelateria try carrot, ginger, fennel, or celery gelato. For those with simpler taste buds, traditional flavors are also available.

> Rizzardini

San Paolo, Campiello dei Meloni, 1415; Tel #041 522 3835; Hours: Wed-Mon 7:30am-8:30pm. They must be doing something right. Rizzardini has been in operation since 1742. Every type of Venetian dolci imagined can be found here pulled fresh out of the oven. On a cold day warm up at the bar with fritelle veneziane (fried balls of dough with raisins) and a hot chocolate or apertif.

> Mauro El Forner Canton

Cannarégio, Strada Nuova, 3845; Tel #041 522 2968; Hours: Mon-Sat 7am-2:30pm, 3-8pm. Exquisite, traditional, homemade. This should be the motto of Mauro El Forner Canton, and put the stress on “traditional”. You won’t find any crazy cakes at this bakery, but they will certainly taste divine. 

In 1516 a Senate Decree instituted an area of Venice (the north corner of the Cannarégio district) where Jews were confined to live and could not leave from sunset to dawn. The decree created the first ghetto of the Western World. Confinement and a burgeoning population lead to the six to nine story buildings still visible in this area today.

Exploring the Ghetto Ebraico or Jewish Ghetto is a must for any trip to Venice. Stop by the Jewish Museum and synagogues, which house artifacts preserving Venetian Jewish heritage. On display are cultural objects, textiles, gold works, and other art. The museum also maintains five neighboring synagogues, and tours are included with entrance to the museum. (Aielli & Benevento also offers a private tour with one of the most knowledgeable guides in Venezia!) Of the five synagogues, the Scuola Levantina is often hailed as the most impressive and should surely not be missed.

 After a day touring the Ghetto Ebracio head to Ai Canottieri for dinner. This small restaurant features a comprehensive menu at a great price. Lunchtime is popular for students therefore a stop is best saved for dinner where the menu is far more elaborate.

>Museo Ebraico e Sinagoghe Cannarégio

2902/B, Campo del Ghetto Nuovo; Tel #041 715 359; Hours: Sun-Fri 10am-7pm (June-Sept), 10am-5:30pm (Oct-May), departure for the synagogues every hour.

>Ai Canottieri

Cannarégio 690, Fondamenta di San Giobbe; Tel #041 717 999; Hours: Mon 8am-4pm, Tue-Sat 8am-4pm, 7:30-midnight.

Any mention of the Italian Riviera brings to mind romantic visions of brightly colored hillside towns standing at crystal clear water’s edge. Reality will not disappoint the imagination, as a trip to the Ligurian Coast will show. While popular destinations such as Cinque Terre and Portofino often capture the time and hearts of tourists, consider another spot to explore during your visit to the Riviera.Savona, a small town near the top of the Ligurian arch, established itself as an economic and productive port. However don’t let its standing as an industrial center fool you, inland visitors will discover some of the most beautiful art and architecture of the region. Hidden gems can be found inland, best explored on foot.  A visit to Savona should begin with a stop at the Fortezza del Priamàr. Built in 1542 by the Genoese and altered many times over the centuries, Savona’s main attraction now houses a major museum complex. Once inside the Fortezza focus your time on the Palazzo della Loggia. Here you’ll discover great examples of military architecture but also a concentration of the Fortezza’s best museums. Located here: Pinacoteca Civica, Civico Museo Storico-Archeologico, Museo d’Arte Sandro Pertini, and Collezione Renata Cuneo. Within these museum walls you will find magnificent examples of Ligurian art, ceramics, Etruscan artifacts, and political history and culture. After the Fortezza, enjoy the port’s hustle and bustle with a visit to the Torre di Leon Pancaldo. This 14th century tower was named for the navigator from Savona who sailed with Magellan. Located on Via Paleocapa (the town’s busiest main street), the tower looks out onto the sea. Decorated with a statue of Madonna of Mercy, the inscription reads in Italian “Amid an angry sea, surrounded by misfortune, we invoke Your name, our benign star”.   Most travel to the Ligurian Coast will occur during the summer months. Check out two of Savona’s best beaches. First, Bergeggi Isle is an ideal spot for diving due to its numerous underwater caves. Accessible only by boat or dingy, it is soon to become a national marine protected area. Another beach worthy spot is Torre Beach for its crystal clear freshwater. It is accessible by car with available parking, or by bus, which stops along Via Aurelia near the beach.   If the kids are along for the trip check out Grotte di Toirano (Toirano Caves) (Piazzale Grotte, Toirano; Tel #018 298 062; www.toiranogrotte.it). Kids will love exploring the 150 natural caves and their breathtaking features: stalactites, stalagmites, and crystal formations. A highlight of the tour, be sure not to miss the Grotta della Strega (Witch’s Cave) where you’ll find fossils of the cave’s former dweller, a great bear. Here kids can investigate fossils, claw markings, and prints along with other Stone Age artifacts. A long day of touring will make any traveler hungry. Savona is known for its pasta, therefore be sure to stop by Pastifico Savona (Via Nazario Suaro 14; Tel #019 851 516) for some delicious handmade goods. This artisan pasta shop produces some of Liguria’s best pasta specialties: pansoti, trofie, and ravioli. Try Pastifico’s tasty sauces including walnut, meat sauce, and pesto. If something sweet is what you crave try Amaretti Astengo (Via Montenotte 16/r; Tel #019 820 570). This pastry shop has been in business since 1878. Try something from their fantastic selection of amaretti, pandolce, torta sacripantina, and various chocolate cakes and biscuits.  Giovanna Palatucci 06.01.2009