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Archive for February, 2008

Food lover stops in Bologna…

Thursday, February 28th, 2008

John Grisham made much of Bolgna’s good eats in his recent book “The Broker” but this city has long been known for it s rich cuisine, earning the reputation as Italy’s food capital. Not an easy place to get to, Bologna is often overlooked by Americans traveling the Venice-Florence-Rome circuit in 6.5 days. But if you find the time to take a peak at Bologna…here are quattro ristoranti worth searching out…

> Diana
Via Indipendenza, 24; Tel # 051 231 302.It is known as the temple of bolognese cuisine; established in 1920s. Atmosphereof 1950’s…Try the tortelli, tagliatelle and roasted meats.

> Posta
Via della Grada,21/A; Tel 051 6492106; www.ristoranteposta.it Candle-lit tables…filled with romance…Tuscan dishes. Good wine list. Solid pastas.

> Donatello
Via Righi Augusto, 8; Tel 051 235 438. Frequented by famous artists and singers. Renowned for its excellent food, try the tortelli with cream and walnuts.

> Rodrigo
Via della Zacca,2; Tel 051 235 536. One of the city’s most elegant restaurants. Located in old building in the city centre…both traditional and creative entrees.

Tuscan Food: Best savored in winter!

Friday, February 22nd, 2008

Among the world’s cuisines, few rival the simple yet immensely tasteful Tuscan menu found in so many Florentine restaurants. Unfortunately, most Americans only experience this ambrosia when they venture to the Renaissance City in the midst of 90 degree summer days. Tuscan food —hearty stews, roasted meats, great vino rosso–can be enjoyed best coming in off a cold street and warming oneself from the winter chill. For that winter break ( or frankly any season) here are a few less talked about restaurants and trattorias worth trying:

> Il Santo Bevitore (66 r via Santa Spirito; tel # 055 211 264) This spare and modernist hide-away is found in the Oltrarno neighborhood around Santa Spirito Square. Its high style of glass and wood and theatrical lights makes it a chic place for young diners. Try the wonderful “four prosciuttos” or the veloute of Jerusalem artichokes. They also have a wonderful osso buco with risotto Milanese.

> Trattoria Vittoria (52 r via della Fonderia; tel # 055 225 657)This well off the beaten path hide-away is a 25 minute stroll along the river from the center of town. It breaks the Tuscan rule that you can get prime seafood only sea side. One of its best dishes is indeed the antipasto de mare. They also do an excellent sea bass (spigola).

> Buca dell’Orafo (28 r Volta dei Girolami; tel # 055 213 619)This is the classic “hole in the wall” Florentines love, found a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio. The owner and one waitress handle the tiny dining room which is a half story below street level. The dishes of chicken, calves liver, and roasted veal are most excellent on a chilly afternoon.

> Ristorante del Fagioli (47 r Corso Tintori; tel # 055 244 285)This unassuming restaurant is known for its excellent hardy food and each meal is sustained with a fiasco of cheap Tuscan red for which the waiter simply eyeballs the bottle and scribbles a charge on the check (il conto).

> Da Nerbone (Mercado Centrale; tel # 055 219 949)To sample the city’s “soul food” requires a stop at this lunch only stall in the Central Market alongside the outdoor San Lorenzo Market. (This is where the indoor vendors sell their goods.) Da Nerbone serves great sandwiches of brisket, roast pork (arista), and tripe with stewed tomatoes.

> L’Antico Noe (6 r Volta di San Piero; tel # 055 234 0838)One of the best of the unaffected rustic Tuscan food purveyors. The owner of this joint, Massimo Torelli, does a wonderful job with mixed salami, foccacia, deep fried artichokes, and flattened and fried pork chops. Despite the emphasis on fried, it is always crisply and greaselessly right!

>Ristorante Cafaggi (35 r Via Guelfa; tel # 055 294 989)This is a slightly more upscale restaurant but a great producer of standard Tuscan dishes. Mangia tutti oggi!

Undiscovered Puglia

Wednesday, February 20th, 2008

Puglia, the little-known and even less traveled coastal region on the Adriatic, is finally gaining attention and its own Italy-loving fans. With towns with names the like Ostuni,, Alberobello Bari, and Monopoli, first time visitors to Puglia are always impressed by the incredible food. The regional cuisine of fresh fish from swordfish, squid, and octopus to orrechetti pasta and great dishes of zucchini, eggplant and fresh pressed olive oil. This region is quickly becoming home to newly renovated boutique hotels also known as masserias. For those with a faint recognition of coastal Puglia, think of the famous stone conical shaped homes known as I Trulli. This is a great region is the essence of “off-the-beaten path touring. It’s great for biking and it is filled with untrammeled small towns and hidden villages. For some very respectable accommodations check out in Monopoli: La Peschiera (Contrada Losciale 63, Monopoli, 70043; Tel # 0808-01066; www.peschierahotel.com) Rooms start at 450 Euros per night in low season or in Savelletri di Fasano there is the new and gleaming resort: Masseria Torre Maizza (Tel# 0804-827-838; www.masseriatorremaizza.com.) or the Hotel Palazzo Del Corso, a fully restored, Early 19Th century building 100 metres from the centre of the Gallipoli ( Corso Roma 145; Tel# 833 264040; www.hotelpalazzodelcorso.it.

Passports, Luggage and Credit Cards… Three key travel tips.

Tuesday, February 19th, 2008

From the A&B tips and touring guide, here are a few tips worth remembering when you embark on your next international journey.

1. Passports: Do not — we repeat — do not pack your passport in either luggage or a carry on bag. Always keep your passport on your person even if you lack a large jacket pocket to hold this important document. Far better to carry a lanyard-like special passport carrier than lose your entry/exit document. Also, remember to make a copy of your passport which should be kept in your carry-on with a second copy left at home and accessible to a family member or friend. Also, be sure to fill out the page in one’s passport detailing your emergency contact information (page 7).

2. Lost luggage. Update your personal luggage tags to state(preferably in Italian) the name of the first hotel in which you will be staying once you arrive in Italy. In case one’s bags are in fact lost, this information, with the appropriate mobile phone contact number improves one’s chances of quickly getting their lost bags returned. (It does little good to have luggage tags that say, “John Doe, 123 Main Street, Anytown, USA “; as this will not help the local baggage return service which has been deployed to return your luggage to you while in Italy.) By the way, you may actually get your bags back sooner, if you happen to land in Rome but are traveling immediately to say Venice or Florence. It is likely Alitalia or whoever has lost your bags will put them in the more dependable hands of FedEx to deliver since these destinations are outside the service area of the local baggage delivery service.

3. Credit cards. One needs to be aware that certain credit cards will limit ATM withdrawals to 400 Euros per day and as a result can put a serious limit on one’s purchasing power. Equally unknown to many travelers is the fact that after a certain amount of spending (never fully specified) certain bank cards will automatically shut off. This shut-off will occur even with “no limit” cards such as American Express. Therefore, it is critical to notify the credit cards companies whose cards you will be using BEFORE YOU LEAVE of when you will be traveling and how much you anticipate spending.

Overlooked Orvieto

Tuesday, February 19th, 2008

Often overlooked and always superseded by Assisi, Orvieto represents the first of many beautiful hill towns one easily visited after departing Rome on the way to Florence. Orvieto is a city situated on the flat summit of a large butte of volcanic tuff. The site of the city is among the most dramatic in Europe, rising above the almost-vertical faces of tuff cliffs that are completed by defensive walls built of the same stone. Often thought of as part of Tuscany, Orvieto is in fact part of Umbria, Italy’s only land locked region. Known for its delightful white wine (regrettably, overproduced and tarnished here in the USA) Orvieto has an impressive Gothic duomo, found after taking a short funicular ride. Just an hour and a half outside of Rome, Orvieto overlooks rich Umbrian countryside. The cathedral, its most famous attraction, has a flamboyant façade covered in dazzling multi-colored mosaics and was begun in 1290. Next to the cathedral is the thirteenth century papal palace known as Palazzo Soliano. If you stop in Orvieto there are three places worth considering for eating. For elegant dining, in the same piazza as the duomo, is Giglio d’Oro ( Piazza Duomo, 8; Tel # 07763 341 903; Closed Wednesdays. Elegant dining in style; both local and international fare featured. Indoor or outdoor tables. Facing the Cathedral.) Another popular place with creative cuisine and required reservations is Osteria dell’Angelo (Piazza XXIV Marzo 8/a, 27; Tel # 0763 341 805; Closed Tuesdays. Creative cuisine, some of the best dining in the region. 4 blocks northeast of Piazza Popolo. Must reserve. (four blocks east of Piazza Popolo). Finally, for traditional local cuisine, a step off the beaten path there is Antica Bucchero (Via de’Carttari 4; Tel # 0763 342 763; 2 blocks east of of Piazza della Repubblica.) Orvieto remains a worthy stop on any slow travel schedule.

Villa Amista: Art, Liberace and Valpolicella

Friday, February 15th, 2008

Veneto’s funky Villa Amista, aka Byblos Hotel: This is the kind of location fashion designers like Roberto Cavalli or Dolce & Gabbana would seek out for a fashion shoots. The Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà is a cross between a classic Venetian country estate and what you might expect if Liberace had decorated a villa…funky, colorful and yes, stylish. The hotel is truly unique …with a fresh new creative gloss that has been meticulously applied to a 15th century palazzo. Situated in the heart of the Valpolicella wine region, Villa Amista has a spa, restaurant, art gallery and is just a skip from the centre of Verona. With five star hotels in Venice offering standard doubles starting at $750 a night, many travelers weary of the grand venetian tradition of offering “less for more” will opt for something less crowded and more affordable on the Veneto (Venetian plain).

Contact: Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà, via Cedrare, 78; Corrubbio di Negarine (Verona);
Tel +39 045 6855555; Fax +39 045 6855500; email: info@byblosarthotel.com.

Milan’s Hip new hotel for “shop-o-holics”

Thursday, February 14th, 2008

There’s a great new accommodations offering for the shopper who wants to essentially sleep at the mall. Actually its a much better experience than that last sentence makes out. Newly launched…the Town House Galleria hotel is a very chic and exclusive property. You certainly will not hear any loud American in the lobby shattering the morning air with “Harry, where’s the camera?”. The Town House Galleria also just happens to be the only hotel located inside the historical “Galleria’. Built in 1876he historical “Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II” is one of those iconic images, located at the very heart of Italy’s fashion capital. The hotel’s architectural features include hand painted vaulted ceilings and large shuttered windows, and blends contemporary and traditional décors. Many of the suites look out over the Prada store and into the shopping promenade. Contact: Town House Galleria Milano; Via Silvio Pellico, 8; email: galleria@townhouse.it; Tel: (+39 )02 89058297; Fax: (+39)02 89058299.

‘Romantic’ Rome …Take notes!

Tuesday, February 12th, 2008

When its amore one seeks, Rome’s venues are often overshadowed by rival Paris. The next time you are in the Eternal City, however, check out one of these great places for that perfect romantic moment. With its unmatched concentration of art and history, scenery, and vibrant people, make Rome a city of monumental charm.

In our ongoing love affair with ‘Bella Roma”, here are some sublime experiences…

> Aerial Aperitifs… Try one of these roofs with a view… the rooftop restaurant La Terrazza of the Eden Hotel or the Hotel Splendide Royal’s beautiful terrace restaurant, The Mirabelle (or its bar)… Rome’s fabled ever changing light is the main attraction at the Hotel Exedra’s rooftop, overlooking the spectacular Piazza della Repubblica, the Diocletian’s Baths and the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli (designed by Michelangelo)…. Hotel Raphael, take the elevator to the top floor, wind through the hallway and then walk up two flights to reach this rooftop bar. The Raphael is just behind Piazza Navona and from the roof you are virtually at eye level with the great dome of the Chiesa Santa Maria della Pace.

> Art Overlooked…Going to the Capitoline Museum’s Palazzo Nuovo in late afternoon on a crisp winter day, when no one else is there. Your only companions are half-drunk, smirking fauns and busts of Hadrian and Homer. Found in the Renaissance created n Piazza del Campidoglio, on top of the famous Capitoline Hill, part of a central trapezoidal piazza conceived by Michelangelo Buonarroti in 1536 and executed over a period of over 400 years.

> San Pietro Straight Up…Taking your first step over the threshold of St. Peter’s Basilica. When the ethereal light of the low afternoon sun is broken into celestial beams by the basilica’s well-placed windows, Bernini’s stained glass dove of the Holy Spirit against the church’s terminal apse flickers with searing tones of amber. With a diameter of around 43 meters, the beautiful dome was Michelangelo’s last great work. From the top of the dome you will have the best views of the papal palaces and its gardens. Make the effort to climb the 330 stairs to view the inside of St. Peter’s. You can also get great panoramic views of Rome on the outside as well when you make the climb.

> Appian Adventures …Treading the ancient paving stones along the leafy Via Appia Antica, and leaving the hustle and bustle of the centro far behind. From the catacombs to the ruined villas of Roman patricians, there’s a quiet but heavy sense of history here. Umbrella pines and farmland that seem to be steeped in antiquity perfume the air, transporting you back to the time when this was Rome’s Regina Viarum (Queen of Roads) Part of the route exists as Via Appia (SS7), but it is a paved, modern highway. The stretch indicated here is closed to traffic; the ancient roadway passes through grassy fields and shady groves and by the villas of movie stars (Marcello Mastroianni and Gina Lollobrigida had homes here) and other VIPs. Pick a sunny day, wear comfortable shoes, and bring a bottle of water. (You can take Bus 660 from the Colli Albani metro station Line A) for Via Cecilia Metella at Via Appia Antica.)

> Testaccio…Mixing with locals at the lively Mercato di Testaccio. No other market in the city has such a strong sense of community: Yuppies and jovial retirees shuffle from stall to stall, passionately debating the latest political scandal—or soccer (football) league standings—while they expertly pick out the freshest culinary delights. Perhaps more so than any other Roman neighborhood, Testaccio has a salt-of-the-earth flavor drawn from its working-class slaughterhouse past.

> Forum Shopping…Gazing over the ruins of the Foro di Romano (the world’s first mall!) and Palatine from the Capitoline Hill terraces in the evening and, from there, strolling down Via dei Fori Imperiali, where strategically placed floodlights cast dramatic glows over solitary columns and the arches of the Colosseum. The ruins of Rome at night are truly, disarmingly spectacular.

> Pincio TerracesThe Pincio Giardinia have always been a favorite spot for strolling. Today, the Pincio terrace remains a favorite spot to cool off overheated locals. Pathways are lined with white marble busts of Italian heroes and artists… The Pincian Hill is one of the seven hills of ancient Rome, and they are still separated from the southwest corner of Villa Borghese by a stretch of ancient walls. From the balustraded Pincio terrace you can look down at Piazza del Popolo and beyond, surveying much of Rome.

> Trastevere Travels…Wandering the untouristed, narrow back streets of Trastevere and discovering shops, eateries, and slices of local life not listed in any guidebook. Separated from the rest of the old city by the river, this picturesque neighborhood has been able to maintain its own identity since ancient times, when it was called simply Trans Tiberim (“across the Tiber”).

> Caffe Comportment…Master the art of taking a caffe at a real Roman bar. Walk into the bar, greeting all with a smile and “Buon giorno.” Pay for your drink first at the cassa, and take your receipt to the bar counter. Slip a 10- or 20-cent tip on top of the receipt, and place your order with the barista. Drink your coffee as the Romans do—standing up at the bar.

> Borghese poses…Encountering Bernini’s sculptures at Galleria Borghese. Grimace in determination as David does against daunting adversary Goliath, or gape at the amazing detail of Apollo and Daphne. The paintings and ceiling frescoes throughout the gallery make for colorful counterpoints. (FYI…the gardens are free but Gallery aka Museo is by appointment).