One of the hallmarks of a great wine is the excitement evoked by the arrival of its latest vintage. By that measure, Brunello di Montalcino may be the greatest wine made in Italy, as the debut of the new Brunellos is always one of the most highly anticipated events of the year. This was certainly the case for the 2004 Brunellos, which many were comparing to the much-lauded 1997 vintage even before the wines had arrived.
The same can be said for the Brunello riservas that are now arriving and the wines that we’re offering today are among the best that we’ve tasted in a very long time. (Brunello riservas are aged for a minimum of four years and are only released in exceptional vintages. The best examples can easily age for twenty or thirty years.) . Here are nine ‘04 favorites from an expert in Italian wine:
1. Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 $80.24
When current Altesino owner Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini acquired the estate in 2002, she committed to maintaining its identity as a traditional estate, restricting her changes to the replanting of the vineyards and establishment of a new cellar. Situated slightly north of Montalcino, this estate enjoys a substantive degree of sunlight during the daytime, a provision that is complemented by nightfall’s cooler disposition.
2. Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 $425.87
Its history dates back to 1726, when Clemente Santi secured the family’s place in winemaking history by isolating the Sangiovese clone Sangiovese Grosso. In 1865, Clemente created Vino Scelto (Brunello) by methodically selecting the best clones of Sangivoese. Prior to the early 1960s, Biondi-Santi remained the only official estate producing Brunello di Montalcino. Ferruccio’s son, Tancredi, wrote the standards for the DOC that eventually formed the laws which regulate Brunello production
3. Castello di Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto 2004 $77.81
Resting on the eastern outskirts of the Montalcino district, Camigliano boasts a rich heritage. Lying partially beneath the master house, at least a portion of the winery was built at the same time as the old boundary walls, around 1250-1280. Here, famed consulting enologist Lorenzo Landi crafts traditionally-styled wines that merit attention, especially the Brunellos.
4. Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 $76.60
Established in 1957 by the Cencioni family, Capanna made a substantial contribution to Montalcino’s early efforts for international recognition. Capanna honors this heritage by adhering to a traditionalist paradigm. The current owner Benito Cencioni’s sons, Patrizio and Francesco, have introduced a modern dimension, they implement it in an experimental context.
5. Costanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 $112.98
The 20th century saw the first commercial Costanti Brunello crafted by Conte Emilio who built on his ancestors’ labor and study of the land when he began production in the early 70s. He and his brother, Elvio, created a top-flight wine made from ten hectares of vineyards within the family’s 25 hectare estate. In 1982, their grandson Andrea arrived at the ancestral villa; He enlisted noted winemaker Vittorio Fiore.
6. Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 $123.90
Established in 1923, Fuligni is presently co-owned by Maria Flora Fuligni and her nephew, Roberto Guerrini Fuligni. The estate has an impeccable vintage record and is known for producing one of the area’s most elegant and refined Brunellos, even in challenging vintages. This success is a profound testament to the deft artisanal approach of Roberto Guerrini, and oenologist Paolo Vagaggini.
7. Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna I Paganelli 2004 $102.07
The Franceschi family has owned the estate’s 100 hectares of prime vineyards around the historic village of Sant’Angelo since 1890, but the vines only began to live up to their full potential in 1958, when esteemed enologist Pierluigi Talenti was enlisted for his agricultural expertise. Over the next 40 years, Il Poggione became synonymous with classic, elegant, structured Brunello. Though Talenti passed away in 1999, Fabrizio Bindocci–who spent more than two decades at Talenti’s side–carries on the tradition of excellence.
8. La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna degli Angeli 2004 $88.73
La Gerla serves as one of Montalcino’s most historic estates. The farmhouse that sits on the property, which was given the name “Colombaia,” was once the property of the Biondi-Santi family where they crafted their early Brunellos. In 1976 Sergio Rossi purchased the property and restored it, and in 1978 founded what is now La Gerla estate.
9. Lisini Brunello di Montalcino ‘Ugolaia’ 2004 $116.62
Lisini is positioned in the southern area of the Montalcino zone which offers a full-fledged Mediterranean climate contributing to the wines dense, fruit-driven character. Derived from the eponymous cru, which was planted with rigorously selected vines, it ages for 36 months in Slavonian oak, followed by 18 months in bottle.
(Source: Sergio Esposito, Italian Wine Merchant)
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