Overlooked Umbria
Monday, September 7th, 2009If you’ve ever wondered if you may have been to Tuscany too many times, read up on Umbria. One of Italy’s smallest regions, about half the size of Connecticut, Umbria is landlocked in central Italy, with Tuscany to its west, the Marches to the east and Lazio (Rome) to the south.
Its 20-some towns and 60 small villages have preserved medieval architecture, Etruscan artifacts and masterpiece frescos. This region has some of the most important late-medieval/early-Renaissance art in Italy. As in most regions of Italy, there is delicious local cuisine and wines. More truffles are found in Umbria than anywhere else in the country, and the ‘black diamonds’ are coveted. There are more than 10,000 registered truffle hunters. Restaurants often have pork and lentils on the menu. Saffron is grown here, as is olive oil and saffron. Locals enjoy farro, an ancient grain that is used in soups. Red wines are made from Umbria’s sagrantino grapes
Unlike the Tuscan towns of Siena and Lucca, let alone Firenze, Umbrian towns aren’t jam-packed with tourists. Some of the best attractions are outdoors: great walks and gorgeous drives. Hope this short report will whet your appetite for Umbria.
Deruta: Ceramics Central
This small hilltop village is known around the world for its beautiful ceramics, an industry that began here in the 1300s. Don’t think you are going to get a bargain here just because you are at the source. Each piece, from butter dishes to tabletops, is hand-painted. There are traditional and modern patterns. Like many Italian hill towns, Deruta has two sections: upper and lower. The charming historic part is up the hill. There are some small shops, where artists often go about their work, painting in view of tourists. The lower part is all business – or art, depending on your point of view. Modern, non-descript buildings house most of the town’s 70 showrooms and retail shops. Cama (Via Tiberina, 113; (39) 075 9711182; www.camaderuta.com) was chosen to make a special piece for Pope John Paul II.
Don’t Miss: To gain perspective, visit the Museo Regionale della Ceramica (Largo San Francesco, 1; 39-075-9711000; www.museoceramicaderuta.it ), which chronicles the history of this art and displays a collection of pieces dating back hundreds of years.
********Great Meals: A favorite of the local artists, Tavola e Favola (Via Tiberina, 190; 39-075-971-0276) has excellent food. In nice weather, sit at one of the beautiful outdoor ceramic tables. You will find few tourists at La Locanda del Bracconiere (Via Borgo Garibaldi, 8; 39-075-92353). Enjoy the self-serve antipasti bar.
Orvieto: Wines, Caves, and Cathedral
Orvieto is a favorite traveler’s town in southern Umbria, and is famous for its white wines (Orvieto Classico) and Duomo. From Orvieto, visitors enjoy views of small towns, valleys, and vineyards below. It is big enough to have quality restaurants and shops selling ceramics and crafts. Don’t Miss: Heaven and hell are depicted on the façade of Orvieto’s duomo, whihc has one of the most elaborate Gothic-style facades in Italy, and houses the Italian painter Signorelli’s famous frescos of the Last Judgment. Michaelangelo came to study Signorelli’s technique. Take an Orvieto Underground Tour of Orvieto’s underground Etruscan wells and caves.
********Great Meals: Unique is an overused word, but few people have dined in a medieval grotto that was a workshop where ropes were made in the 1100’s. At Le Grotte del Funaro (Via Ripa Serancia 41; 0763-343-276; www.grottedelfunaro.it), certified Chianina beef is a specialty.
Festivals: The 8-day Orvieto con Gusto (Orvieto with taste) festival is dedicated to food and wine made in Italy. A scaled-down version of the Umbria Jazz Festival is held in Orvieto for 5 days surrounding New Year’s.
Perugia: Capital Jazz, Great Art, and Chocolate
With a population of 150,000 — 30,000 of which are Italian and international college students — Perugia is a young and vibrant hilltop town whose medieval origins are perfectly preserved. It is also one of the few full-fledged cities in Umbria. The Perugina Chocolate Factory (Route E 45, Madonna Alta exit) is about 20 minutes outside the city and offers free guided tours daily, reservations required. The Tourist Information Office can call (075-527-66-35 or 075-527-67-96. Be sure to ask for a tour in English. The factory is actually called Nestle, as the Swiss chocolate company owns Perugina. There is also a museum. Beginning at about 5 pm, Perugians take their evening passeggiata along the Corso Vannucci, from Piazza italia to Piazza IV Novembre. The city’s wealth is on display in trendy boutiques, plentiful bars, and good restaurants. Whether you need to or not, ride the escalators that have been built into the Etruscan city walls, past excavations of the Roman foundations.
Don’t Miss: The Galleria Nazionale Dell’Umbria, one of Italy’s best museums for Renaissance art, with works by Fra Angelico, Gentile da Fabriano, and Piero della Francesca. Rocca Paolina is the underground remnants of a fortress with an ancient Etruscan gate.
********Great Meals: Segreto di Pulchinella (via Larga, 
is a great pizzeria. Bellini (via Cesare Battisti, 5) and L’Opera (via della Stella, 6) have talented chefs who are creative and artistic. For traditional Umbrian cuisine, dine at Il Falchetto (Via Bartolo, 20).
Insider Tip: Former key employee at chocolate maker Perugina owns Augusta Perusia, on Via Pinturicchio. It follows that the gelato is incredible: try pear and chocolate, Mayan chocolate, and pistachio.
Festivals: Every July, the 10-day Umbria Jazz Festival draws musicians and music lovers from around the world. In October, chocolate lovers indulge at the Eurochocolate festival, a 9-day event with tastings, carving competitions, and classes. Go to the festival during the week for a less-crowded experience.
Spoleto: Renowned Arts Festival, Amazing Bridge
This walled city on a steep slope must be explored on foot, which is not unusual in Italy, but it is not easy walking. There are a lot of stairs and significant inclines, so wear your most sensible shoes. The main cathedral, Romanesque architecture with a Renaissance loggia in soft pink stone, has 8 rose windows and many impressive frescos including Life of the Virgin. Don’t miss the lovely original floors.
Don’t Miss: A walk across the Ponte delle Torri, a 14th-century bridge over a deep gorge. During the day you’ll see panoramic vistas of the lush green land that surrounds Spoleto. On starry nights, it’s very romantic. Not so romantic are the origins of The Rocco fortress, a prison for hundreds of years. Now it’s an art gallery, performance space, and museum.
********Great Meals: The elegant Il Tartufo (Piazza Garibaldi 24; 39 074340236; www.ristoranteiltartufo.it) opened in 1927 and serves local specialties, in a fusion cuisine style blending traditional and modern. Special attention is given to truffles ten months a year.
Festival: The July month-long Festival of Two Worlds celebrates all the arts with concerts, opera, dance, film, and theater. Italian-American composer Gian Carlo Menotti founded the event in 1958.
Assisi: Spiritual Pilgrims’ Mecca
In Assisi, the home of St. Francis, there are 60 religious communities with residents from all over the world. Pilgrims and tour groups – estimated to be between 4 and 5 million per year – can clog the city, but you can avoid crowds by spending a night in town. Enjoy a quiet breakfast and late night dinner, and take a side trip in the afternoon.
Don’t Miss: the Basilica of St. Francis, with the crypt of St. Francis and a ‘fresco cycle’ of 28, probably by Giotto – called The Life of Saint Francis. The artist controversy only makes the visit more interesting. Also trek further afield to visit the retreat of St Francis and his followers, Erme delle Carceri (which means isolated place as well as prison) on Mount Subasio. Note: lots of walking.
********Great Meals: Trattoria Pallotta (Vicolo della Volta Pinta, 3; 075 812 649; www.pallottaassisi.it/) serves homemade tagliatelle, potato gnocchi, rabbit cacciatore and other typical Umbrian dishes.Festival: May’s weeklong Ides of May, Calendimaggio di Assisi, features Renaissance and medieval costumes, parades, theater and dance performances, concerts, archery competitions and a singing contest.
