Wines for an Italian Thanksgiving
Posted by: Lorenzo | November 18th, 2011 | No Comments »
“Italians don’t celebrate Thanksgiving. There isn’t even an equivalent holiday, as there is in Canada and other countries. However, not having Thanksgiving doesn’t mean that Italians don’t have something to say about how to celebrate it. When Italians plan a meal, they don’t just plan out the courses; they also plan out the wines for each course. There’s no way that the wine that you start a meal is also the wine you drink as you finish it. The wine isn’t serving the same purpose, and it isn’t accompanying the same food. It’s a form of blasphemy to jumble wines and foods in Italy–you’d no more serve Prosecco with the main course than you would serve a Barolo with your antipasti. To do so would be to present jarring notes, and the whole point is to create a seamless, escalating experience where each course gets you primed for the one that follows. So here follows suggested wines for each course of your Italian Thanksgiving…
Gli Antipasti
Italian meals begin with antipasto, literally, the dish before the meal. More than mere hors d’oeuvres or snacks, the antipasti should stimulate your appetite, prepare your palate, and ready you to enjoy the meal ahead of you. Prosecco is the traditional antipasti beverage–in Italy, the first thing most hosts and waiters will ask you is if you’d like a glass. However, other options like a crisp, aromatic white like today’s Peter Dipoli Sauvignon Voglar or an acidic, jaunty red like Eraldo Viberti Barbera d’Alba will also do the palate-stimulating trick.
- Fantinel Prosecco Brut Extra Dry NV $16.00 (Veneto–Prosecco)
- Peter Dipoli Sauvignon Voglar 2007 $31.99 (Trentino-Alto Adige–Sauvignon Blanc)
- Barone Pizzini Brut Franciacorta NV $37.20 (Lombardia–Chardonnay)
- Eraldo Viberti Barbera d’Alba Vigna Clara 2004 $43.75 (Piemonte–Barbera)
I Primi
Primi Piatti is a pasta, polenta or rice dish; it’s an easily digested food, one that warms you on the inside and offers an explosion of flavor resting on a bed of comfort-making starch. Wines reflect texture as much as they do the sauce. There should be a sassy acidity that makes your mouth ready for each new bite. Whether you opt for a white touched with a shot of salinity like Bruna Pigato’s Le Russighine or Paolo Bea’s Bianco Arboreus, or a red with that strides the line between fruity and rustic like Il Macchione’s Vino Nobile or Fatttoria di Fubbiano’s I Pampini–or one of our other selections–you want a wine with a sassy, fresh mouth-feel.
- Bruna Pigato Le Russeghine 2010 $28.88 (Liguria–Pigato)
- Cascina Barbatella Mystere 2000 750ml $32.99 (Piemonte–Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera, Pinot Nero)
- Fattoria di Fubbiano I Pampini 2003 $42.25 (Toscana–Sangiovese, Teroldego)
- Il Macchione Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2006 $46.50 (Abruzzo–Prugnolo Gentile)
- Poderi Aldo Conterno Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador 2008 $50.00(Piemonte–Chardonnay)
- Paolo Bea Bianco Arboreus 2006 $68.99 (Umbria–Trebbiano)
I Secondi
This is, for most American families, turkey on Thanksgiving, but it also could be any dish that’s the big centerpiece of your meal–including duck, goose, venison or roast pork. In Italy, there’s a crescendo with the I Secondi. We picked the “big” wines, the showstoppers for this course. They’re aromatic, nuanced, and complex. These are wines that give pause and celebrate that main course and the people at your table. All of these wines–Brunello, Rosso, Barolo, Chianti and more–are wines that want to accompany the main course “wow” moment. Plus, you can’t go wrong with Sesti, Grattamacco, Mascarello, or Fontodi, not at a time like this.
- Fontodi Chianti Classico 2008 $36.84 (Toscana–Sangiovese)
- Bartolo Mascarello Barbera 2009 750ml $41.05 (Piemonte–Barbera)
- Grattamacco Rosso 2000 $50.00 (Toscana–Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot)
- Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Cappella Santo Stefano 1999 $79.99 (Piemonte–Nebbiolo)
- Palari Faro 2006 $80.00 (Sicilia–Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Nocera, Acitana)
- Sesti Brunello di Montalcino 2004 $88.45 (Toscana–Sangiovese)
I Formaggi
The cheese course is a staple across Europe. Italians have long believed that cheese helps digestion, and recent science supports this folk wisdom. The wines for the cheese course need to be assertive enough to complement the richness of the formaggi, but it needs to be mellow enough to signal the end of the meal. We’ve chosen some seriously artisanal finds–the spicy and unusual Gewürztraminer Exilissi, the Lombaridan Nebbiolo Valgella Carteria, the ripe Venturini Armarone, and Quintarelli’s chewy, haunting Ca’ del Merlo.
- Quintarelli Primofiore 2007 $49.50 (Veneto–Corvina, Rodinella, Molinara, Negrara)
- Sandro Fay Valgella Carteria 2007 $49.99 (Lombardia–Chiavennasca)
- Venturini Amarone Campomasua 2005 750ml $64.99 (Veneto–Corvina, Rodinella, Molinara)
- Baron Di Pauli Exilissi 2007 $69.99 (Alto Adige–Gewurtztraminer)
I Dolci
Dessert is a tough pairing. The wine can’t be too sweet or it cancels out what it’s meant to complement. But it also can’t be too dry or it’ll fall flat. We’re featuring one of the all-time great dessert wines. The ‘59 Solaria Jonica is the lucky child of the hottest summer on record in Puglia, the skills of master winemaker Antonio Ferrari, and sheer luck. Astoundingly vibrant, this wine sits somewhere between a Recioto and a Port. Rich, luscious, concentrated and warm, this wine needs to be tasted to be believed and sipped slowly to be appreciated.
- Antonio Ferrari Solaria Jonica 1959 $149.00 (Puglia–Primitivo)
(Source: The Italian Wine Merchant, eNewsletter, 11.17/11).

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